Lunch

Anthony's at Flannels

Salvo's CafeIF you haven’t sampled the delights of the set menu of Anthony’s at Flannels yet, then you really should. It really is pretty good value, particularly since the food comes from the stable of Leeds’s finest chef Anthony Flynn. Two courses will set you back £14.50 while three courses is just £18. Ok, it isn’t budget dining but you’ll be hard pushed to find many restaurants of this standard serving meals where each course is just £6 to £7 a throw.

It really is delectable. My dining partner went for the starter option – scallops with pesto in chilli foam (foam is one of Flynn’s signature flourishes) the foam itself actually wasn’t that flavoursome but the scallops were cooked perfectly. We both had the main of beef with glazed vegetables which was wonderful – absolutely sublime comfort food which doesn’t sacrifice subtlety in favour of indulgence. While my dessert of a tiny ginger cake with ice cream was small but amazingly formed and just the perfect ending to the meal. There’s several choices for each course on offer too, each one mouthwatering and inventive and each one with its own reminder that you’re dining courtesy of Monsieur Flynn.

Service could be hit and miss at times. Every now again it would slip a little, then they would somehow redeem themselves, often with a smile and an apology. When we first walked in we were told we faced a 20 minute wait for a table and asked to sit in a waiting area. We agreed and said we’d like a drink while we were waiting. Anyway, ten minutes passed and no one came to take our drink order but then, shortly after, we were shown to our table anyway. Unfortunately we had to wait another ten minutes or so before someone came to take our drink order. To be fair when we had selected our dishes and drinks everything came in reasonable time. Only the dessert seemed to take a while, and even then the waiter was incredibly polite and wasn’t afraid to say sorry, which makes a massive difference.

And if you don’t fancy the set menu then there are one or two specials to choose from. Alternatively, and this is the beauty of Anthony’s at Flannels, you can just come in for a coffee or even full afternoon tea. The whole set up is aimed towards day-time eating and drinking and since it’s just a few shuffles from the main shopping thoroughfares of the city centre it’s ideally placed. It is terribly chic too, with white minimal space and stylish wooden tables complemented by red leather chairs. The long sash windows offer an urban view which, although far from beautiful, heightens the sense that you’re in the heart of Leeds. You come here for the thrill of the city, not Turneresque landscapes. Anthony’s at Flannels is the ideal place to stop off when you’re in town on other business, not so much a destination restaurant, but one which really is essential to try. RATING: 4/5

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