The Olive Tree
You can't really pick a better spot than this in north Leeds. Smack bang on the leafiest section of Harrogate Road this branch of The Olive Tree is set some way from the main throng of restaurants and bars which have made this corner of the city come alive at night.
The beauty of this Greek restaurant is that it somehow absorbs all the atmosphere of Chapel Allerton while protecting you from the some of the more lairy elements.
With long, open windows you can watch as the bright young things trot into revelsville while you're safely cosseted away in more serene surroundings.
The trouble is that most dining spots in the area are either attached to, or right next to, a bar or pub. This is great if you like that sort of thing, not so good if you don't.
But don't expect a morgue, inside the restaurant still bustles nicely, there's always a good crowd and the place is more often than not packed.
To be fair it isn't difficult to fill The Olive Tree, it's hardly cavernous. The tables and chairs are crammed in a little so you're often eating back to back or sometimes elbow to elbow with strangers.
Not that this matters particularly, it all adds to that organic, rustic feel which, strangely, you might not expect from this restaurant because they've actually gone for rather minimal surroundings.
Plain, skimmed white walls and hidden lighting make for a look more reminiscent of a city living apartment than a taverna. But, in this upmarket suburb that seems to fit just nicely.
The food on the other hand is authentic as it comes and, depending on where you're positioned, you can probably see it being cooked in front of you thanks to the particularly open kitchen.
Don't be put off by all the favourites you'd expect to see on the menu of a Greek restaurant, you needn't expect the usual mediocre generic options.
We went for the mixed dips which were delightful, a clearly lovingly put together collection which might have been rather run-of-the-mill and forgetful at lesser venues.
Far from a footnote to the meal they are a strong composite part, and deservedly so.
Other highlights included my main - the stifado, made up of succulent, sizeable chunks of beef coated in a celestial sauce accompanied by vegetables and potatoes. An absolute triumph.
My dining partner went for the chicken in a yoghurt sauce which went down equally well.
Try the makedonikos too, it's a speciality dessert akin to a rather intense trifle. A very intense trifle. Not quite Oliver's cup of tea, but it will float many a diner's boat I'm sure.
Strangely the draw which continually brings us back to The Olive Tree is their rosé wine (no tittering at the back) which is infused with raspberries. An absolute delight and the perfect accompaniment.
It's obvious from the first mouthful that everything is put together here with the investment of time and effort, nothing is thrown in a pan and simply served up.
The key element at The Olive Tree remains the cuisine - everything else is just good fortune and window dressing.
And people who come here know they're guaranteed a certain standard when they sit down for their meal.
The service is flawless, friendly and efficient. Staff are attentive but don't continually invade your space and pester you in order to secure a tip (not least because there's a ten per cent service charge automatically put on there.)
This is a very refreshing change.
The Olive Tree isn't cheap, but it is very reasonable given the standards they've attained and maintain consistently.
Dining here - three courses, with wine, coffee and maybe a drink thrown in while you're waiting - will set you back something in the region of about £40 a head.
Which is a darn sight cheaper than many restaurants where you won't enjoy such good food, service or atmosphere.
If you haven't already sampled their delights then The Olive Tree really must be tried, and if you're going to sample any of the three branches - the other two are in Rodley and Headingley - I'd try here first and then, naturally, progress to the others trying different dishes as you go. You won't be disappointed.
